Itinerary

Antigua in 10 Relaxed Days: Dickenson Bay, Nelson’s Dockyard and Shirley Heights

English Harbour seen from Shirley Heights, with yachts at anchor

Antigua is a small island with a lot of history and, famously, a beach for every day of the year. We spent ten nights there in March 2024 at Sandals Grande Antigua on Dickenson Bay, and took one half-day tour round the island. We’d go back: we really enjoyed it, and found the people very friendly.

Can we manage this?

The flight. We flew British Airways business class. BA flies direct from London Gatwick, about 8½ hours.

The transfer. The airport is in the north of the island, close to Dickenson Bay, so it’s a short drive.

Walking. Very little. The island tour is by car, with short walks at each stop. Shirley Heights has uneven ground around the old lookout.

Heat. In March we had warm temperatures, low humidity and a pleasant breeze from the trade winds.

Pace. Easy. Beach days, with one half-day out.

The trip at a glance

  • When: March 2024, 10 nights
  • Where we stayed: Sandals Grande Antigua, Dickenson Bay
  • Room: a Sunset Bluff Honeymoon Luxury Club Level room
  • How we booked: the hotel directly with Sandals, and BA business class flights
  • Day out: a half-day island tour with a private driver, booked through Sandals
  • Best time, for us: March

Dickenson Bay

Dickenson Bay, white sand and calm turquoise water
Dickenson Bay, 4 March 2024.

Dickenson Bay is on the north-west coast, a long curve of white sand with calm, clear water. It’s one of the island’s best-known beaches, which brings the one thing to be aware of: it can get very busy when a cruise ship is in, as day visitors come over from St John’s. On those days, a morning swim or the hotel pool is the quieter choice.

A red British phone box on the beach at Dickenson Bay
A red phone box on the sand, 5 March.
Sunset over Dickenson Bay with parasols on the beach
Sunset over the bay, 13 March.

Where we stayed: Sandals Grande Antigua

Sandals Grande Antigua seen from above, pools and gardens leading to the sea
Sandals Grande Antigua from above, 6 March 2024.

Sandals Grande sits right on Dickenson Bay. It’s all-inclusive and for couples only. We booked directly with Sandals, and ate at the resort throughout our stay. We stayed in a Sunset Bluff Honeymoon Luxury Club Level room. We tend to choose Club Level wherever we stay, because the extra perks make a real difference to a relaxed holiday.

Worth knowing: Sandals offers a discount for the military and emergency services, which is very helpful. Ask about it when you book.

A scarlet macaw perched on a rail outside the resort restaurant
A visitor outside one of the restaurants, 4 March 2024.

Read our full review of Sandals Grande Antigua.

Diving the wrecks

I was going to go scuba diving, which I believe is included at Sandals for qualified divers, and there are a number of shipwrecks to explore. In the end I didn’t. But we met another guest who had, and he said they were some of the best wreck dives he’d ever done. If we go again, I’ll definitely dive.

If you’re a diver, check what’s included and what certificate you need when you book.

Our half-day round the island

We booked an organised tour through Sandals with a private driver. It took half a day and it was really good, well worth doing. Here’s the route we took, with the times from our photos.

Betty’s Hope (about 10am)

A former sugar plantation in the middle of the island, with two old stone windmills. It’s definitely worth a visit to understand some of the history of the island.

Two stone sugar mill towers at Betty's Hope
The sugar mills at Betty’s Hope, 8 March 2024.

Devil’s Bridge (about 10.15am)

A natural limestone arch on the wild Atlantic side, where the waves crash through underneath.

Andy and Alison at Devil's Bridge, Antigua
The two of us at Devil’s Bridge.

Shirley Heights (about 11am)

The old military lookout above English Harbour, and the highlight of the day. The view over English Harbour is breathtaking.

Our tip: Shirley Heights can get very busy, especially at sunset. We went in the morning, when it was quieter, and we could enjoy the spectacular views in peace.

Stone building and pillars at the Shirley Heights lookout
The old lookout at Shirley Heights.
Clifftop view over a bay from Shirley Heights
Looking out along the coast.

Nelson’s Dockyard (about 11.35am)

Down at the water, the Georgian naval dockyard is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with restored stone buildings, old ruins and yachts moored alongside.

Brick ruins in the grounds of Nelson's Dockyard
Old brick ruins at the dockyard.
A restored building at Nelson's Dockyard
Nelson’s Dockyard, 8 March 2024.

Back along Fig Tree Drive

We drove back to the hotel along Fig Tree Drive, a winding road through the green, hilly south-west of the island.

Good to know

  • March was a great time for us to visit: warm, not humid, and breezy.
  • Check the cruise ship timetable if you want Dickenson Bay quiet.
  • See Shirley Heights in the morning rather than at sunset, unless you want the party.
  • Ask Sandals about the military and emergency services discount.
  • Check entry requirements and travel advice on GOV.UK, and make sure your travel insurance covers diving and any pre-existing conditions.

Antigua gave us a lovely beach, a fascinating half-day of history, and one of the best views in the Caribbean. We’ll be back, and next time I’m diving those wrecks.

Trip dates March 2024. Details are from our own stay and may have changed since.